Monday, January 28, 2008

Morning in Kofiase

November 27 6:22am

We are sleeping in a finished house. It is fully light by this time of day but the sun is not high and bright and hot yet. Most of us are still sleeping or dozing but everyone and everything else is awake and they have been for an hour or more. Our cooks, Peace & Jane, are busy preparing our first meal of the day and the community is awake cooking and crying and yelling and crowing.


Peace was the lead cook for our trip and she joined us in Accra with boxes and boxes of supplies and equipment to cook for our brood. She had cooked for many Habitat Global Village trips before and did an amazing job keeping us very well fed with simply delicious food! Here she is in the storage room of the utility portion of the women's building - we ate off of the dishes stacked off to the left and food was served piping hot from the round yellow thermos like pot you see directly beside her to the right. Neither Bruce nor I experienced many stomach troubles from the food and I think Peace's experience and skill were the biggest reason we stayed healthy! Here's hoping Peace is doing well - she is expecting a baby in early February!


Jane joined us along with Peace from Accra. She did a lot of the cooking outside. Here she is using a stove which holds charcoal under the pan - she is fanning the charcoal to heat the oil to fry either potato or plantain (yum!) fries.

I hear the sounds of pounding fufu (as shown in the video below - courtesy of Bruce), snoring, clucking, sweeping or peeling of fruit, louder crying and talking. Sometimes I hear the wind rustle the garbage bag hung on the large open door, not yet full of our North American garbage (dirty wipes, granola bar wrappers and toilet paper rolls).



Our room is quite large and houses 8 of us – Sue, Sharon, Britt, Karen, Suzanne, Krista, me, Yanik. We have used a rather ingenious method to rig up our mosquito nets and I think it has made everyone more comfortable. Three lengths of rope strung the length of the room, one at each side and one in the middle then the middle of each end of the net is tied to the string to make a two peak tent long enough and wide enough for our sleeping mats. We have then exploded our packs and suitcases inside and placed items in each corner and along the sides to widen it. We have tied our corners together to give us much needed height and breathing room. Having the net sit just several inches over your head means it gets much hotter inside, much more quickly and also means a good work out anytime you want to search through your pack, change or even put on your shoes. Lying on your back, planting your feet flat on the mat and lifting your rear off the mat means you can remove pants and underwear and put on clean ones. Sitting cross legged and bent almost in half means you can change your shirt or sports bra within a few minutes, rather than the few seconds it takes you standing up. At dawn and dusk this is important to do all under the net because this is prime time for the mosquito which carries malaria. So far we have seen little to none of these little ‘beasts’ which many of us are thankful for I think.

We are here at the beginning of the dry season and are experiencing the warming harmattan winds from the Sahara. These are more pleasant than we had thought as they take the humidity out of the air and give us a lovely breeze. Our room has two large double doors at each end and these have kept things cool for us at night. [Unfortunately, the threat of cobra season meant that our host, Naomi with the Habitat for Humanity Ghana office, suggested we keep the doors closed instead of open – yikes! This made things much hotter, but safer I guess.] Last night I slept well from about 9pm until 5pm. I was warm at first, but not as warm as the night before but I did wake to find myself damp and chilled again so I was prepared to lay my fleece over top of my torso to stay warm. I’m wishing I brought my fleece blanket but will likely be just fine with just my jacket.

Washrooms are a latrine within the same house. A quick hop to the ground from our room and then a step on to the porch and then down the hall past the cook’s room and shower room and stacks of bottles of water in the halls. There are two toilet seats set into the mortar covered bench in the room and so far it doesn’t look like things will be dire enough for us to come to the point where we will have to go two at a time! The set-up is quite smart and is a raised clay bench with the seats directly cemented into place – they are rather far back though so you almost have to fall back on to them. They are clean and smell fine despite the heat and are a pleasant surprise for most of us, as many things here have been.


The latrine of the Habitat for Humanity Kofiase office building that the women stayed in. Typical in its set up but atypical in the fact that there were two seats . . sadly, the 'lack' of smell did not last long with 13 women using the same latrine ... : (

This morning’s air is misty and it seems like things may be much cooler today – we cold weather Canadians can always hope! I am cross legged under my tent facing the doorway and I can see grey misty sky and tall stalks of corn blowing in the cooling breeze. Meg just walked by in Capri pants and a sweater so it must be nice and comfortable out. It’s 7:04 now and breakfast is at 7:30 – time for me to get dressed for our first full day of work and hopefully visiting homeowner families in their current homes, as planned.


A typical breakfast . . . fresh white bread, delicious Ghanaian style omelette (this one had mini sausages/wieners thrown in for kicks!) and fresh papaya or popo, as it was called locally.

Thursday, January 17, 2008

Arriving in Ghana

While we were in Ghana I found some time to journal about my experiences. I wasn't able to journal as much as I would have liked so I'll use some of my journal entries and fill them out with other details that we can remember. This post starts with Bruce and I close to arriving at Heathrow Airport to catch our flight to Accra, the capital city of Ghana. The next date is two days later. We arrived in Accra on the evening of the 24th to meet our team and stayed at the Miklin Hotel near the airport. We enjoyed a late supper of fried chicken and plantain and then were off to sleep in preparation for the long bus ride north through Kumasi to the village of Kofiase where we would be staying for 12 days. At the end of a long day traveling by air-conditioned bus through cities and towns, witnessing Ghanaian life as it is lived in the streets - hawking anything from baked goods to crackers to tins of sardines to every vehicle as it passes by - we didn't know what to expect as the sun set and the roads became bumpier. After 7-8 hours of traveling our bus suddenly stopped.


The frosty morning in Hastings as we left for the airport.


Our first Ghanaian meal - fried plantains and chicken!


Accra as seen from our bus window.


Enjoying FanYogo - frozen yogurt! Purchased from a roadside rest stop (pretty fancy by Ghanaian and even Canadian standards) - there was much ado about cleaning the package and using clean scissors to open it before we sucked the delicious frozen treat out. By the end of the trip Bruce & I were far less careful.


Sunset outside of Kumasi as seen from the bus window.




November 24 9:35am
About 25 miles to go! Getting excited on the M25! Left around 8:15am from Hastings . . . too excited to record the time ; )

November 26 6:58am We arrived last night and our arrival was quite amazing. The full moon was rising and brilliant orange and everyone came to meet our bus. Kids were loving the camera and flashes and we all had fast new friends who held our hands as we walked the path towards our site. We walked lit by the full moon and the headlights from the truck carrying our bags and supplies. Looking back on our silhouettes created by the moon and head lights made me smile; as our team of 18 Canadians walked along an uneven dirt path holding hands with tiny Ghanaian children, kicking up dust, I realized, we were in AFRICA!

Once we were led to where we would be staying and found our luggage in the mild chaos of backpacks, suitcases and boxes of bottled water, we explored our accommodations and quickly divided ourselves up; men off to a smaller Habitat house back behind the main common area and the women in a larger building the affiliate had built to serve as storage and office space – 6 women in the smaller room and 8 of us in the larger room. It was dark, so we dug out flashlights and headlamps and began to tackle the problem of hanging our mosquito nets. We worked together quite well as a team and fashioned our own method to hang the nets. While we set about getting our rooms together, our cooks, Peace and Jane, were busy preparing a very tasty spaghetti dinner. Our group then gathered together in our first circle for a short meeting and then it was off to bed.


A view of the women's room Brandy slept in, complete with our mattresses, bedding, bags and mosquito nets strung up - at night they were lowered and tucked around our bed and bags.



Here's Bruce posing on the porch of the men's house - the camera is looking north out towards the farm fields and forests of the community. The Habitat houses are simple, two rooms and a porch in this case, with a utility shed off to the left (not shown) which houses a toilet, bathing room and storage room.


For me it was a terrible night; it is nice to wake up on the other side of it. I couldn’t sleep and had to get up for the toilet twice – the first time I scared a cat (or other small unidentifiable animal?!?!?) who ran past me and scared me half to death as I turned on my light. Lesson – never forget to turn the headlamp on no matter how bright the moon.

The morning roosters started at 2am and again by first light – around 5am. It was hard to get enough sleep as they crowed back and forth to each other endlessly! Time to organize my pack, find some clothes and get ready to meet the chief!


Just a few of the many, friendly neighbourhood chickens that we shared the village with. These ones have found a jackpot of dried corn kernels in this basin.



Hand painted banner displayed in the middle of town to welcome us to Kofiase.



Stay tuned - 12 more days to share.
Coming soon!


Also, special thanks to the Rotary Club of Oak Bay for their generous donation in support of our fundraising efforts - check out our final fundraising total $6,325.43!